All Australian Fashion Week, one word kept coming up: “diversity.” Calls for more of it. Praise for brands that embraced it. Worries that some have moved away from it. But what does “diversity” really mean?
At a glance, some runways seemed more inclusive – models of different shapes, skin tones, and hair types. But what does that “diversity” mean when behind the curtains, hair teams could only work with straight hair, photographers ignored curve models, and crews constantly misspelt names. Because this happened to me and other curve models and models of colour.
For one show, I’d planned to write a fun, “day in the life of a model at Fashion Week” piece. I even brought along a disposable film camera to document the occasion for our readers.
But when I arrived backstage, my name was spelt wrong on every sheet. Then came the hair: after my curls were fiddled with by multiple stylists, I was told there’d be no product used. “Your hair’s beautiful — it doesn’t need anything!” Double homicide.
Trust me — I wanted to take it as a compliment. But after years in the game here in Australia, I’ve learnt that’s often fashion-speak for: “I don’t know how to do your hair.” And I’m not alone – other models of colour will back me up on that.
Sitting in the hair chair, I knew – I’d be walking away with a different kind of story to tell.
I used to let it slide — water off a duck’s back. Vent to friends, then move on – or at least try to. But after working overseas, where caring for my curls and spelling my name right was simply the standard, I can no longer smile and nod when I’m uncomfortable.
I asked for a Sharpie and fixed my name on every sheet. I went to the bathroom and did my own hair with products I brought (this isn’t my first rodeo). Sure enough, I came across another model of colour who was also unhappy with how her hair was handled. And as we exchanged experiences, it became clear this wasn’t just about the final look. It was about not being heard in the process.
By the grace of permanent marker and curl cream, I was able to do what I do best on the runway – without feeling so flat. But the thing is – and I think many would agree – it took a lot of work to get there. Why do we have to go to such lengths just to feel seen? Why should we risk being labelled “difficult” for expecting people to do their job?
It’s a strange, lonely feeling – to be the face of a brand, stomping the runway with confidence, while backstage, feeling unseen and uncared for. If audiences really knew what went on behind the scenes, would they still clap so loudly for the display of “diversity”?
We know it can be better – because it is better elsewhere. So, let’s stop settling for crumbs and raise the bar.
Real diversity isn’t just about who’s being cast – it’s about who’s behind the scenes, too. Stylists who know how to care for all textures. Photographers who welcome every body. Crews who take time to learn and pronounce names properly. In any other industry, if someone can’t do their part, they simply don’t get hired – and fashion should be no different.
Creatives have a responsibility to keep growing – to learn, practice, and keep showing up better. With more resources than ever – workshops, masterclasses, mentors – the tools are there. If you care about the craft, you’ll make the effort.
These 10 creatives – photographers, stylists, makeup artists, and more – made me feel seen, safe, and genuinely comfortable on set. They’re truly equipped to work with a diverse range of models, and they’re only getting better. If you’re building a team and want to walk the talk, start here.
Anabelle Ussher @anabelle_ussher_artistry (makeup artist)
Holly Rayner @hollyrosemua (hair & makeup artist)
Laura Mazikana @lauramaz @deeplyrootedhair (hair & fashion stylist, creative director)
Lisa Fulginiti @lisa.fulginiti (hair & makeup artist)
Lisa Mitrov @lisamitrovmua (hair & makeup artist)
Rosaline Kanneh @braidculture.au (hair stylist)
Sarah Bolt @bysarahbolt (photographer)
Suleiman Thomas @beautyinourcultures (photographer)
Taj Holmes @tajholmes (videographer)
Vic Anderson @vicanderson (hair & makeup artist)
To those watching — if you only see one kind of person on the runway, ask why. Then take action. Contact brands. Call in designers.
If the casting looks diverse, ask who was behind the scenes. And if something isn’t right, make noise. You might get eye rolls – but every time you speak up, you help move things forward.
Support the designers who are doing the work. Many are Queer, many are younger – and they’re leading with care. Talk about them. Share their work. Buy from them if you can. They’re not waiting for the industry to change – they’re changing it themselves.
And finally – uplift the voices speaking out. It takes real courage to say, “This isn’t good enough,” especially in an industry where doing so can risk future work. Let’s not mistake honesty for being difficult. Because that honesty will push this industry forward – for all of us.
